The Ohio Climbers Coalition(OCC) has reserved Group Campsite 3 in Beaver Creek State Park, Sprucevale area, to celebrate the official opening of climbing here. Note that this is separate from the main campground and the Equestrian Camp. The event will span the entire weekend of August 23, 24, 25, 2024. Camping at Group Site 3 is available to climbers starting about 6 pm Friday night and running through Sunday. Come to camp and climb or just come to climb during the day. Climbers must bring there own harness, shoes and chalk bag. Ropes and draws would be helpful but some ropes will be set up as top ropes for those that do not wish to lead or for climbers that don’t have ropes or draws. If you choose to camp, please bring your own camping equipment, including food unless you wish to go into town to eat. Calcutta is fairly close.
The OCC first approached the Park in July, 2018 to see if we could gain climbing access within the park. A lot has happened since then (including Covid). There are two separate areas in the park designated for climbing, the first is Raven Rocks which gets sun most of the day and is located behind Group Site 3. The second area, Spruce Knob, can be found by parking near the Old Mill and hiking in from there.
The local Fire Chief requested each route be labeled so an injured climber could tell him exactly where they are. The Park and OCC worked together to make and install 1” medallions at each climb with the name of the climb and rating marked on each. Also one rescue lane was cut at each area by the park at the Fire Chiefs request in case an injured individual had to be lowered down the steep hill between the climber area and the main trail below. Please stay off these rescue lanes and use the established trails to prevent excessive erosion.
If your new to the area please note that some of the trails that lead to the climbing areas are shared by horses. Please be courteous to the riders. Make sure they see you and move to the safest side of the trail and let them pass. A simple hello lets the rider and especially the horse know you are not a threat. Avoid sudden movements and loud noises. And when climbing or hiking above the main trails, be careful not to knock down rocks onto a possible horse or hiker below.
The climbs here are short but fun, and due to the steep nature of the terrain, all are sport routes with a handful of trad routes mixed in.
As of mid July, there is a Turkey Vulture den under Captain Caveman in the Spruce Knob area (just past the volunteers in the photo). You will first notice large amounts of white bird poop on the rock in the area followed by a nasty smell. If you get close enough you will hear a scary hissing sound and will be able to see the bird/s on the ground. Hopefully, they will be gone by the Grand opening as Captain Caveman is a Beaver Creek classic.
Information on the area can be found on the OCC website, along with printable topo maps of each area:
https://www.ohioclimberscoalition.org/beaver-creek-1.
A general printable map of Beaver Creek State Park can be found here: