CLimbing on sandstone

The cliffs at Flat Rocks are composed of sandstone, similar to other areas of Ohio like Hocking Hills and Salt Fork State Park. When climbing on sandstone, it is important to understand that the rock tends to be softer than other types of rock like limestone or granite. This softer rock is more susceptible to breaking, and when the rock is wet, it can lose up to 75% of its strength. In short, do not climb on wet sandstone. To better assess whether the rock is dry and ready to be climbed, ask yourself the following questions:

- How much precipitation fell? The rock will dry out faster after a quick passing shower than after a heavy downpour or inches of snow accumulation. Check the local forecast to see how much precipitation fell to get a gauge of how long it will take to dry out.

- How humid is it today? Anyone who has spent a few days in Ohio in the summer knows that it can get very humid here. When it is humid outside, it is going to take longer for the rock to dry out (and it going to make sending your project that much harder).

- What direction does the wall face? Is it in direct sunlight or hidden in the shade? South or west facing walls that get more direct sunlight will tend to dry out faster than walls facing north or east that are mostly in the shade. At Flat Rocks in particular, the Junkyard area will likely be one of the first areas to dry out due to its direction and exposure to sunlight all year long.

- Is there evidence of moisture? The surface of the rock may look and feel dry on the surface, but underneath still have lots of moisture trapped inside which can make it more brittle. Are the approach trails muddy? Is there any moisture at the base of the wall? If you dig an inch or two into the dirt at the base of the climb, do you find mud? If you answer yes to any of these questions, there is likely still moisture in the rock, and it is best to wait for the rock to dry out more before climbing.

For more information about how to assess sandstone after rain or snow, check out this link from the Access Fund: www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/how-to-assess-sandstone-after-rain-or-snow 

chalk

Climbing chalk is allowed at Flat Rocks, but we ask everyone to use it lightly and please clean up any spills or tick marks after each session. With the soft sandstone rock, it is also important to make sure to use the proper type of brush to clean off the rock and avoid damaging it. At Flat Rocks, soft brushes like boar’s hair brushes are recommended. Do not use wire or nylon scrub brushes as these will permanently scar the rock.

To learn more about how you can minimize your impact when using climbing chalk at the crag, check out the link below from the Access Fund: www.accessfund.org/learn/the-climbers-pact/chalk 

ROUTES

Route information for Flat Rocks can currently be found on Mountain Project.

The area was historically known as a bouldering destination, but there has also been development of top roping routes on the taller walls at the Dungeon and Junkyard areas. These routes are equipped with large eye bolts on top of the walls (similar to what can be found at John Bryan State Park in Yellow Springs). If you are unfamiliar with how to setup top rope anchors, please seek out instruction from a qualified instructor. 

crag steward

Pete Lynch (pete@ohioclimberscoalition.org) is the Crag Steward for Flat Rocks. Please email him with any questions or comments you may have about the area.

Lancaster Parks & Recreation actively manages Keller Kirn Park (where Flat Rocks is located). You can find out more about Keller Kirn and other area parks by visiting their website: https://lancasterparks.com 

Getting There

Flat Rocks is located at 960 Stringtown Road NE, Lancaster, Ohio 43130 . Google directions to the area can be found here: https://goo.gl/maps/2YvBL5BJLjk5BNfVA

From the parking lot, use the climber trail located just right of the kiosk. This trail will take you back to the cliffs, and you’ll see trail maps along the way. When walking along the trail, make sure to watch out for flying discs as the trail is close to the disc golf course that is also at the park. 

area attractions 

Keller Kirn is also home to the Flat Rocks Disc Golf course that is managed by the Lancaster Disc Golf Alliance (www.facebook.com/theldga). More information about the disc golf course can be found at: www.pdga.com/course-directory/course/flat-rocks-disc-golf-course

Just down road from Keller Kirn is another beautiful park called Rising Park which provides great views of the city. Though there is a major cliff at Rising Park, there is no climbing or bouldering at this area!

Downtown Lancaster is also home to great local restaurants, bars, coffee shops, and art studios, and it is only a short drive from Flat Rocks. To learn more about some of the local attractions, check out the Destination Downtown Lancaster website: www.destinationdowntownlancaster.com. 

camping information

There is currently no designated campgrounds at Keller Kirn or any of the local parks. 

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